If you regularly work with sheet goods you have several choices for
processing the material, including a conventional circular saw, a
vertical panel saw, a table saw, or a plunge cut saw. If you only
use sheet goods occasionally, one of the most economical and
safest ways to cut sheet goods is with a circ saw and some kind
of edge guide, either commercially made or shop made. Using a circ
saw equipped with a good quality finish blade and an accurate edge
guide will give you reasonably good quality cuts though you'll
likely still get chip out on both the top and bottom of the sheet
stock. As well, plunge cutting with a circ saw can be somewhat
risky, and anyone who has used a circ saw for any length of time
will have experienced kickback, caused when the blade binds in the
cut.
Vertical panel saws don't take up much floor space, and they require
less working area to process sheet goods, as the saw head rides on a
moving carriage. They're quite expensive, but on all but the top end commercial grade
saws you can expect rough cuts with a fair amount of chip out - the
saw is suspended above the sheet stock rather than sitting directly
on the stock. If you've ever had sheet goods cut at a Home Depot
store you'll be familiar with the quality of cut from a vertical
panel saw.
Saw Trax
vertical panel saw |
Felder
sliding panel saw |
For my money, you get the best chip-free cuts on a table saw equipped
with a finish blade and a zero clearance insert. You can do this
most efficiently and safely on a sliding panel saw. However most of
us don't have the good fortune of owning one of these expensive,
space consuming saws; we use the ubiquitous cabinet saw or the
increasingly popular hybrid
saw in the workshop. On the job site you might use a portable
benchtop (or work site) saw, or a somewhat larger contractor style saw. With
any of these saws, manipulating a seventy-five pound, eight foot long sheet of
plywood over a spinning blade is generally awkward, often nerve
racking, and potentially dangerous. If your work space is large
enough you can place a table or roller stand on the outfeed end of
the saw when ripping long stock and on the side of the saw when
crosscutting wide stock. And of course, having a
helper can always make the job easier.
An increasingly popular alternative for processing large, unwieldy
sheet goods is the plunge cut or track saw. The circular saw is designed
to aggressively and quickly cut dimensional lumber and sheet
stock used on construction projects. While similar in many respects
to a circ saw, a plunge cut saw is specifically designed to cut
sheet goods and thin solid stock perfectly straight (whether square
or beveled), cleanly, chip free, and safely (with minimal risk
of kickback). And it's meant to do this quickly, whether on a job
site or in the workshop. Currently only three
manufacturers produce these saws: Festool, Makita and DeWALT. Over
the past three months I've had an opportunity of using a DeWALT
TrackSaw (DWS520) on a shop renovation.
There are several versions of the TrackSaw:
| Models: | |
| Saw alone | DWS520K |
| Saw with a 59" track | DWS520SK |
| Saw with a 102" track | DWS520LK |
| Saw with both a 59" and a 102" track | DWS520CK |
The 28V Lithium-ion cordless model (DC351KL), which was introduced only two years ago, has been discontinued. Just about every tool supplier sells only the saw with a track (or rail); to purchase the saw alone you will need to special order it. The only reason you would want to do this is if you already have a track. Fortunately, the DWS520 will work on either a Festool or Makita track. The tracks (46", 59" or 102") can be purchased separately, and you can connect them together to form a track as long as you need. Of course, you could use the saw with a shop built track, but that would somewhat defeat the functionality of the saw.
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The DWS520 is a well made saw, and comes with a 3 year warranty. At just under 12 pounds it's quite heavy, but I didn't find that to be much of an issue, as in use the saw is typically gliding along the track. A heavier saw also gives more stability in use. The plunging action on the DWS520 is quite different than on a circular saw. A pivoting hinge at the back of the saw moves the motor forward, and then downward. Throughout this action, the motor remains parallel to the shoe and your grip on the handle doesn't change.
There are two handles on the saw, though I found the plunging action
to be very smooth using the back handle alone. However, several
people who tried the saw found it best to use both hands - one on
the front handle and the other on the back handle. Regardless of
whether you use one or two hands, you'll find that the articulating
action of the saw keeps it from creeping forward as you start the
saw and lower the head. Once the saw head is fully lowered you then
begin to move (glide) the saw along the track. I found that after a
few tries this rather unconventional plunging action felt quite
surprisingly easy.
To plunge the saw downward you depress the plunge trigger located at
the top of the back handle. Just below this trigger is the on/off
switch. It takes the motor a few seconds to get up to speed, and
it's best to wait until the motor reaches its maximum RPM before
beginning a cut. Just to the right of the handle is the locking
lever and lock button that enable you to lock the saw head in the
down position for blade changes, or for that rare occasion where you
might need to adjust the riving blade. I found the sequence of steps
to do this initially confusing, but after doing it a few times, easy
enough to remember - press the lock button, lower the saw, turn the
locking lever until it clicks into position, press the locking lever
down, and then rotate the blade until it locks into position.
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The 12 Amp motor spins the blade at between 1,750 and 4,000 RPM. I found the motor powerful enough to slice through 2" oak with ease. You can adjust the blade speed (to one of 5 settings) for the type of material you're cutting (solid lumber, sheet stock, melamine, plastic, solid surface countertop materials or aluminum) by means of a dial located at the top of the motor casing. Soft-start is always a nice feature on a power tool, along with a long power cord; the 12' cord on this saw means I don't always have to peck around searching for an extension cord.
I found that the DWS520 was reasonably quite for a power saw, when initially powered up. However, there was a noticeable resonance as the saw began to cut. The noise was more apparent when making bevel cuts. Thankfully, there wasn't any corresponding vibration. I attribute this to the enclosed blade and the close fit of the anti-splinter strips on the track (which you'll read about below).
Cutting depth scale and lock nut |
Bevel adjustment scale and locking knob |
Ease and accuracy of cut depth are important features on any saw, and the DWS520 does a good job here. Changing blade height or bevel angle is very quick, and the saw locks securely in place. The saw has a maximum depth-of-cut of 2-1/8" at 90° and 1-1/2" at 45° while on a track. The bevel angle goes from 0° to 47°, and when you change the bevel angle the saw locks at both the front and rear, making it super rigid. A great feature on this saw is that when setting blade depth the scale takes into account the thickness of the track. The imperial markings on both the height and bevel scales are quite legible, but there aren't any preset detents; I would have liked to see detents at the common sheet good thicknesses (1/4", 3/8", 1/2" and 3/4"). Also, the adjustment knobs could have been a tad bigger to accommodate people with large fingers.
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The bevel locking knob at the rear of the saw with the 360° dust extraction port just above |
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At the back of the handle is a 1-1/4" dust port that swivels a full
360°. Hooked up to a dust extractor I estimate that between 80% and
90% of the dust was sucked away.
The saw has a 20mm arbor, and comes with a 6-1/2" 48 carbide toothed
ATB finishing blade. I've no complaints with this blade; it
delivered excellent cuts in sheet stock and solid wood. The plate is
laser cut rather than punched or stamped; this enables the
manufacturer to use a harder steel that's more resistant to warping.
Anti-vibration slots help stabilize the blade and reduce blade
chatter, which contributes to a longer cutting life. Expansion slots
allow the blade to expand and contract as it heats up during use,
and they serve to reduce noise levels. Plus, I like the large teeth as I'll be able to have it re-sharpened several times,
which makes the blade even more economical in the long run. My only
complaint is the odd combination (20mm arbor and 6-1/2" blade). I
wasn't able to locate any compatible blades for the DWS520; which
means I'm limited to using DeWALT blades for the foreseeable future.
Fortunately, at $44 I don't find it overly expensive for the quality
of cut it provides.
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The blade change system works quite well; I was able to remove and
re-install the blade in about four minutes. You move the saw head
down, lock it in place, and then hold the arbor lock while removing
the blade clamping screw. The wrench for replacing the saw blade
stores conveniently in the front handle.
Circular saws have the potential to cause serious injury,
particularly if there is any kickback. The DWS520 however, has to be
one of the safest power saws on the market, thanks to a spring
loaded riving knife and a unique anti-kickback feature. The riving knife
moves in tandem with the blade, and drops down into
the saw kerf, keeping the stock from pinching the blade. The anti-kickback
feature is a small spring-loaded wheel located in the
center groove of the saw’s shoe. When activated by rotating a knob,
a roller clamps down on the track, preventing the saw from moving
backwards. It's a fairly simple design but works very well; once
engaged, only the Hulk would be able to pull the saw backwards on
the track.
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The key to the cutting efficiency of the DWS520 is the aluminum track that the saw rides on. The tracks are dual sided, so you can run the saw in either direction on the tracks. There is a raised ridge on the top of the track that fits into the saw shoe; this is what guides the saw along the track. Two tool-less track adjusters enable you to fine tune the fit so that there is no sideways slippage as the saw glides over the track. On the top of the track are replaceable glide strips that keep the saw moving smoothly.
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On the bottom of the tracks are rubber friction strips and, at both
edges, anti-splinter strips. The friction strips, working in tandem
with the weight of the saw, hold the track in place. I felt that
they did a commendable job on plywood and solid wood; for glossy
surfaces, such as plastic, aluminum or solid surface countertops,
you'll want to clamp the track in place. DeWALT has track clamps
that attach to the channel in the bottom of the track (and won't get
in the way when you start or end a cut), or you can use quick acting
clamps. For the strips to work best, you need to keep the work
surface dust free; either a blast of compressed air, a shop vacuum,
or a dust brush will do the job.
There are also two friction strips inlaid on the side of the saw.
Which means you can place the saw on its side to cut parallel to the
floor, enabling you to trim door bottoms without removing them from
their hinges. Pretty clever.
The anti-splinter strips have to be cut before you use the track to
ensure that they are exactly aligned with the cutting edge of the
saw blade. The process is straightforward, and clearly laid out in
the instruction manual that comes with the saw. Take your time
cutting the strips, as they're crucial to the optimal performance of
the saw; they work just like a zero-clearance insert plate on a
table saw, ensuring that your cuts will be chip free on the good
side, and almost chip free on the other side. As with a conventional
circular saw, place your stock good side down, bad side up. As
long as your stock is level, you can lay it on just about anything.
I typically cut sheet goods right on the floor, with a scrap or two
of ply underneath. I've also used left over pieces of rigid foam,
which works well with thin stock.
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There are a range of accessories that extend the flexibility of
the saw. I've listed below those that I feel are most useful. By far
my favourite is the Router Adapter, which enables you to use almost
any plunge router with any of the tracks. It's a fabulous accessory
to have if you rout a lot of large panels or sheet goods. For other
accessories check out the
DeWALT website (see the sidebar to the right).
The wear items on the saw tracks (friction strips, glide strips,
anti-splinter strips) can be easily replaced for about $20 each.
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Or lay stock on a sheet of rigid foam |
The DWS520 isn't meant to replace a circ saw on the job site - the circ saw is still the tool to use for cutting dimensional stock and rough cutting sheet goods. And for ripping narrow stock (anything less than about 6") of any length you're much better to use a table saw, or baring that, a jig saw. However, when you want to make precise, straight cuts on sheet stock, particularly when processing expensive prefinished sheet stock for cabinetry or furniture, the DWS520 can't be beat. There are lots of other applications where the DWS520 will become the tool of choice - cutting grooves for inlays on hardwood flooring, making plunge cuts for sinks, edge trimming sheet stock, leveling pre-installed entrance and passage doors in situ.
| Accessories: | |
| 102" track | DWS5023 |
| Router adapter | DWS5031 |
| Track connectors | DWS5033 |
| TrackSaw™ track clamps | DWS5026 |
| TrackSaw™ miter gauge | DWS5028 |
| T square attachment | DWS5027 |
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| Manufacturer: | DeWALT |
| Available From: | Tool and equipment suppliers nationwide |
| Retail Price: | $599.00 (DWS520SK) |
| Model #: | see chart in the article |
| Made In: | Mexico |
| Best For: | Carpenters, cabinetmakers, furniture makers, avid DIYers |
| Key Features: | |
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